Off-Season Maintenance in Mild Climates

In mild climates during the off-season, pool and spa operations should be maintained at all normal levels. These include maintaining the water level, continuing regular sanitizer schedules, and retaining proper pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness levels. Circulating unheated water through the entire system will generally keep the equipment reasonably free of problems, even during occasional freezing periods.

The entire system can be operated intermittently, or on a timer set for when the sun is down or the weather is cooler. Make sure that the timer can be overridden if there is any danger that the equipment might freeze.

Twice-a-month cleaning is recommended for optimum care; at least once a month is the minimum. Uncovered pools and spas must be kept free of debris, such as leaves and other materials.

Winterizing a Pool in Severe Climates

In climates where freezing temperatures are normal, a pool or spa should be completely winterized by cleaning, treating water (if left standing), and protecting the pool/spa and

equipment from weather-related problems. It is necessary to winterize the plumbing, equipment, and pool structure before they freeze. Check the structure and all equipment to make sure everything is in safe and proper working order. Have repairs made during the off-season.

Standard procedures for winterizing are provided below, but not every type of equipment is covered. Be sure to check the manufacturer’s product information.

1. Water Cleaning: Vacuum thoroughly. Vacuum wastewater to the appropriate location. If the filter does not have a “waste” position, vacuum on “filter” position only. Where appropriate, use a portable pump to vacuum directly to waste.

2. Water Treatment: Test the water. Balance the pH, calcium hardness, and total alkalinity.

Chemically treat the water with sanitizer, stabilizer, and algaecide just as you would at other times, or treat with a proper amount of special winterizing chemicals. This treatment is important so that water will not become corrosive when the temperature reaches the freezing point. Depending on the chemicals, some are added before draining, and some are added just before putting on a cover.

3. Lower Water Level: Here are suggested winter water levels for different types of pools, with or without solid material covers or mesh covers. Consult your cover manufacturer’s literature.

a. Vinyl-lined: 1 inch/2 cm below skimmer mouth, but lower in areas of heavy rain and snow precipitation.

b. Plaster finish with solid material cover: 1 to 6 inches/2.5 to 15 cm below the skimmer mouth or tile line, whichever is lower.

c. Painted or natural finish with solid material cover: 6 inches/15 cm below skimmer mouth.

d. With mesh cover or no cover: 18 to 24 inches/45 to 61 cm below skimmer mouth.

e. With automatic covers: water level should not be lower than bottom of skimmer mouth.

Hydrostatic pressure can destroy a drained concrete pool if proper precautions are not taken (e.g., leaving the bottom drain valves open). If in doubt, it is best to leave the pool almost full of water.

4. Piping and Valves: Drain and blow water out of all piping, and fill pipes with a pool-winterizing antifreeze solution. This includes skimmer and main drain lines, return lines, and lines to solar heaters, cleaners, chlorinators, and other accessories. The pump, filter, and heater will also be drained. To blow water out of circulation piping, use a tank vacuum cleaner on reverse flow or an air compressor. A non-toxic antifreeze solution of one part propylene glycol to two parts water should protect water from freezing to 10˚F/-12˚C and allow for possible dilution by water still left in the pipes. Never use automobile antifreeze.

Valves must be thoroughly drained and kept water-free. Be sure that any valves below the water level are sealed securely. Any lines below water level that are exposed to freezing but cannot be drained or filled with an antifreeze solution must be protected with an electric heat tape.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

5. Accessory Equipment: Remove ladders, diving boards, and handrails. Rinse with clear

water. Store in a cool, dry place. Diving boards should be stored flat, if possible.

6. Lights: Remove pool lights from their niches if they have less than 18 inches/45cm of water over them. Either cover them with plastic and place on the deck, or weight them, if necessary, and lower to the bottom of the pool. Make sure that the breaker is turned off or that the fuse is removed so that the light cannot be turned on accidentally.

7. Pumps and Motors: Drain the pump by removing drain plugs provided for this purpose.

These plugs should be left out so that condensation cannot build up within the casing and

freeze in cold weather. Another method is to remove all water from the pump housing and strainer compartment using a wet/dry shop vacuum and add ½ cup to 1 cup/0.12 to 0.24L of antifreeze to the housing without removing the drain plugs. Then replace the strainer/pump lid.

Disconnect the power that leads to the motor if you are removing the motor. In northern climates, the motor is often removed from the pump housing and stored in a warm, dry location.

If there is a timer, be sure to remove the timer lugs and set to the “off” position. The circuit breaker should be turned off, or the fuses should be removed from the pool circuit. When winterizing cast iron pumps, coat all drain-hole threads with the proper lubricant to prevent corrosion during the winter.

8. Filters: In general, all filters should be thoroughly cleaned before shutting them down. Do not leave water in any filter, and make certain that the open valves cannot leak water into the filter.

a. Backwash sand filters three to five times longer than normal. This can be done as the water is lowered, but not while vacuuming. A sand cleaner can be used during this process. Remove the drain plug and open any drain cocks, as well as the air relief on top of the filter. Then put the multi-port valve in the “winter” position. Inspect the sand bed and complete repairs, if needed.

This requires removing the lid from the filter. Put the lid back on the filter, but do not seal it.  Leave the air relief valve open.

b. Backwash DE filters, drain them, take out the elements, and check them. These elements need to be soaked in a special cleaning solution. This cleaning process may reveal small tears in the fabric. After cleaning the inside of the tank, re-install the elements or store them indoors.

In either case, reassemble the filter body, and do not fully tighten the filter lid. This will relieve pressure on the gasket during the winter.

c. With vacuum-type DE units, the drain should be left partially open. For pools located outside hard-freeze areas, the filters can be cleaned in the spring since they will be used occasionally in the off-season.

d. With cartridge filters, remove the cartridge, clean it, and store it where it can dry out. Then drain the cartridge filter body (tank) and leave the filter cap loosely attached to the filter body. As an alternative, remove water from the filter body with a wet/dry shop vacuum, add ½ cup to 1 cup/0.12 to 0.24L antifreeze, and reinstall the cartridge in the filter body.

All filters should be drained completely after winterizing the lines and pump. Leave drain plugs out, but grease the threads with a heavy grease to avoid rusting or corrosion.

Winterizing an In-ground Spa

In general, do not leave an in-ground spa empty for the winter, as hydrostatic pressure in the ground can damage or destroy it. Following are normal procedures for winterizing an in-ground spa.

1. Drain the Spa Completely: Follow all regulations regarding disposal of spa water. Check local codes. Be sure to turn on the blower to get all water out of the air channel.

(You may have to use a wet/dry vacuum or sponge.)

2. Blow out all Plumbing Lines and Piping.

3. Non-toxic Antifreeze: Add a non-toxic antifreeze solution—such as one part propylene glycol to two parts water—to all pipes and blow lines until it appears at spa fittings. Never use toxic automobile antifreeze. Then plug the lines and install a quart-sized (liter-sized) bottle filled with sand or gravel in the skimmer. Fill skimmer body with antifreeze. Remove the weir.

4. Beware of Hydrostatic Ground Pressure: In-ground spas are not left empty in areas where hydrostatic ground pressure may pop an empty in-ground spa out of the ground. Place vinyl or black poly sheeting, at least 6 mils/15 mm thick, in the bottom of the spa to form a liner. Fill the spa with water to the bottom of the skimmer. This liner equalizes pressure and keeps water out of the pipes.

5. Drain Filter Pumps, Air Blower, and Heater: Follow the appropriate winterizing procedures for all equipment. Always check the manufacturer’s product manual. Remove and store in an area safe from freezing.

6. Keep Water Below Skimmer: If water builds up in the spa before freezing weather, pump it out to keep water just below the skimmer. If you will not be checking the spa periodically, leave the spa empty enough to accommodate some build-up of water.

Winterizing a Hot Tub

Following are steps for winterizing a manufactured hot tub.

1. Power off: Turn off the circuit breaker for the hot tub’s electrical line or, if possible, unplug the unit.

2. Drain the Hot Tub: Remove the cover and drain the hot tub. Use the hot tub drain line and/or a submersible pump to be sure you get all the water out. If you use a submersible pump, be sure to open drains you can find once the hot tub is empty.

3. Clean the Filters: Remove and clean the filters. Have the owner store them in his/her

basement or garage.

4. Check the Blower for Water: If the hot tub has a blower, turn it on when the hot tub is empty to clear out any water in the air channel.

5. Remove Standing Water: Vacuum or mop out any standing water. Use a wet/dry shop

vacuum to suck or blow any water out of the jets, skimmers, and suction fittings.

6. Use Non-toxic Antifreeze: Pour non-toxic antifreeze that does not contain ethanol into the skimmer, and try to get it into as many jets and suction fittings as you can. (Check the ingredients carefully—ethanol can damage rubber or synthetic seals, yet some swimming pool antifreeze products contain it.) You can use the wet/dry shop vacuum to blow the antifreeze through the plumbing.

7. Winterize the Equipment Area: Check the pumps for drain plugs, heaters, and any places water might gather. Loosen the unions of pumps and heaters. Remove any drain plugs that may be on the pump housing. If you are in a particularly difficult environment, you may want to remove the pumps for storage in a less-exposed place, such as a basement or garage.

8. Use a Cover: Cover the hot tub with the cover; strap in place. Check that the cover is in good shape and not leaking water into the hot tub. The cover’s surface should repel water, and its shape should slope toward the outside to shed rainwater or snow.9. Secure the Hatch Door: Close and secure the equipment hatch door. Vermin will often try to nest inside hot tub cabinets over the winter. If they gain access, they can chew wires and cause expensive damage. Products are available to discourage rodents from entering the hot tub enclosure.

To return the hot tub to service, simply reverse the winterization process, being careful to purge the plumbing lines in the process.

An overview of recent relevant research and knowledge By Alan Lewis

Pool and Spa owners and maintenance people are concerned about the need to keep the pool water safe and healthy at all times. Most know that the aim of disinfection is to kill pathogens in 50 seconds (WHO standards). This is all the time it takes to transmit diseases between bathers in a pool or spa. Such a requirement can often be found laid down in official regulations and guidelines.

There is however a general lack of awareness that pathogenic cells can be found present in most pool environments in two forms: “ Planktonic ” – floating in the water – and/or “ Sessile ” – attached to a wet surfaces.

A LURKING HEALTH HAZARD
A biofilm is a symbiotic community of microorganisms attached to a solid wet surface. It can include bacteria, fungi, yeasts, protozoa and other microorganisms, some of which are likely to be pathogens. They happily colonise many household surfaces such as toilets, sinks, cutting boards, and more insidiously the linings of our water pipes – both supply and disposal. This is also why we are encouraged to clean our teeth everyday. Usually, the spa or pool owner / operator is not cognisant of their presence. No amount of shock treatments of disinfectants or UV, can remedy the situation. Not many pool services, technicians, chemists or consultants, are able to identify the real source of this phenomenon, as there is little or no ready evidence of its existence. Even fewer service people do much to either prevent the Biofilm from developing in the system, or offer an effective way of removing it once it has established itself.

In fact, once established, biofilms are incredibly difficult to remove since copious doses of biocides can impact on their surface only. The outer layer of dead organisms then acts to protect and feed the thriving community beneath. This is very like spraying a populous aphid colonisation on a rose bud. The spray will kill only those aphids that are actually exposed to the pesticide, while the inner protected layers will continue to feed off the bud. When these Biofilms develop in pipes we have no way of verifying their existence – and until recently, very little could be done to remove or prevent them.

DISCOVERY CAN BE DIFFICULT
State Health Departments and local government health bodies rarely legislate, act upon, or warn of these dangers in pools, until there is a critical event such as illness from, Legionella, Meningicoccal, Psuedomonas aeruginosa, or Cryptosporidiosis, which attract great concern because of their lethal portent. One way of discovering the existence of a Biofilm in a pool filtration system is by simply removing an inspection opening, or multi- port valve of the filter, and digging a hand into the media. The sand will feel sticky and slimy to the touch. In cases where filters have transparent inspection plates – a close look at the media is a much simpler way of monitoring this development, although immature Biofilms would not be visible to the naked eye. Generally we can assume that the Biofilm is there. How thick and dangerous it is, is another matter.

THE FALLACY OF LABORATORY TESTING
Over a century ago, Robert Koch showed the world how to isolate, study and grow pure cultures of microorganisms. Ever since, microbiologists have, like him, been able to discover, and isolate, the sources of many diseases and develop strategies to prevent contagion. This German Nobel prize winner discovered the source of the spread of Tubercolosis, (amongst others) and proposed ways of successfully eliminating it. The methodology he employed in discovering bacteria and studying them, are still used today in establishing whether or not samples of water taken from swimming pools or spas contain significant levels of pathogens which ultimately render that water unsafe for bathers.

Paradoxically, this has brought about the situation where these testing methods fail to expose the dangers lurking in the Biofilm – because, a sample taken from the pool might give no indication what so ever, of the presence of the millions of pathogens multiplying in this discrete layer. The dislodgment of conglomerates from the Biofilm is haphazard and irregular. Scientists studying Biofilms in air conditioning cooling towers found that 99% of the Legionella Bacteria exist in the Biofilm. One recommended spa decontamination procedure in the US requires treating the spa system with 100 ppm of free chlorine!! We know today that this would probably not dislodge the biolfilm effectively.

A NEW FOCUS FOR SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH
Since the early 1990s, many Universities around the world with Schools of Water Science, or Medical Research, devoted significant portion of their research resources to studies of the Biofilm in such areas as: the water supply, air conditioning systems, on our teeth or in our bodies. Some have even devoted studies to the build up of Biofilm in pools and spas. The Pool Water Treatment Advisory Group (PWTAG) in the UK produced a press release relating to the Biofilm, in 1999, when both a spa at a garden centre, and another at a flower show in Amsterdam – unused by bathers and lacking in disinfectant, contaminated visitors with Legionella.

THE STEALTHY BEGINNINGS OF A BIOFILM
Bathers using warm spas and pools, who neglect to shower before entering the water, contribute body oils, suntan lotion, make-up, hair products, and perspiration, to the poolwater. These materials are all nutrients, which accelerate the growth of the Biofilm. In fact it has been found that bacteria actually feed and breed vigorously in this protective Biofilm environment. As a Biofilm continues to grow, eventually unstable chunks break off into the circulating water stream. These contain huge numbers of potentially pathogenic cells which are quickly dispersed by the pumps throughout the pool. Spas are also equipped with jets and air blowers, which effervesce, and can aerosol infective organsims into the air above, where they can be inhaled by bathers. The vagaries of Legionella are well chronicled under these circumstances. *(Refer to an incident in the spa of the Collingwood Football club in June – July 2000) Pool and Spa owners with repetetive mechanical failures in their circulation, or dosing mechanisms, invite accelerated growth of this menace.
*In this incident footballers bathed in a poorly maintained spa in their club – several contracted Legionair’s Disease.

PROTEINS THAT AID MICROBIOLOGICAL CHEMICAL REACTIONS
All living organisms are composed of a significant proportion of various proteins. These are polymers made up of amino acids, nature ’ s building blocks. Within this group of organic proteins is a sub-group known as enzymes. Enzymes are biochemical catalysts, which control the formation and digestion of virtually all biological molecules. Thousands of these have been identified in living cells. For example, we exhale carbon Dioxide (CO2) which is produced from Carbonic Acid in our blood and converted, with the aid of an enzyme (Carbonic anhydrase), to the exhaled gas, when the blood cells enter the aveoli of the lungs. The enzymes speed up this process to about 10,000 times that at which it would occur without them.
Catalase is a different Enzyme which leaps to the protection of P. aeruginosa when hospital staff try to disinfect instruments with hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2) by quickly disarming its potency and converting it to water and oxygen:

2H 2 O 2 >> 2H 2 O + O 2

This enzyme is found in the “slime” emission of P. aeruginosa and can decompose 40 million molecules of hydrogen peroxide in a second.
A NEW METHOD OF BIOFILM REMOVAL

How then can we enlist the aid of enzymes to remove the Biofilm from all of the surfaces of our pools and spas, the associated pipe work, filters, pumps and other equipment which conceal its insidious presence? Many will be surprised to learn that one of the world leaders in the development of enzyme treatments for Biofilm removal has come up with the most successful product available in the marketplace today, known as Multizyme**. That leader of research and development is none other than Novapharm Research (Australia) P/L in Sydney whose active enzyme cleaners are used in hospitals worldwide, to clean surgical instruments after each cycle of use. When the Multizyme formulation is dosed into the pool or spa water, it strips (digests) the Biofilm from all the interior surfaces of the pool or spa plant within hours, by circulating the dosed pool water constantly. [ ** Now known as Aeris Guard ]

Previous products of this nature were unfortunately not successful in removing the built up Biofilm, mainly due to the lack of technology at the time which sustains enzyme activity during the treatment. There are hundreds of enzymes to choose from. Some work at very low pH while others at very high pH. They are quite different to bacteriophages each of which attack only one specific bacteria. In nature each has a very specific task – so we must be thankful that we now have an effective answer for enzymatic Biofilm removal in heated spas and pools and in warmer tropical climates where the Biofilm thrives all year round.

A STRAIGHFORWARD TECHNOLOGY
Within hours of application to a pool or spa the enzymes digest the Biofilm, resulting in very unhealthy water. Clumps of the Biofilm including the slime and other detritus together with the micro-organisms that were entrapped in the pipe continue to circulate until such time as the entire biofilm is released into the body of the pool or spa. In one application of this technology I actually collected samples of the pool water every two hours. After submitting the labeled samples to microbiological tests we found that it had taken 12-14 hours to release all of the bacteria into the water. This conclusion was exposed at the point where the steady increase in the microorganisms (from sample to sample) in the water stopped and we were able to conclude that the process of stripping was complete.

This water must then be dumped and the system briefly flushed out with fresh water, which should then be totally removed from the pool or spa. Biocides such as chlorine and bromine render these enzymes ineffective – so treatment should begin when the free chlorine or bromine residual in the water is very low or non existent. Alternatively, a chlorine quencher such as Sodium Thiosulphate (at the rate of 1 gram / 1000 litres/ 1 ppm of free chlorine to be reduced) will remove the active chlorine from the water – prior to beginning the treatment. If Ozone or UV generators are installed they should be switched off during this process. To be doubly sure that the pool surface is entirely free of contaminants a quick swab of the inner pool surface with liquid chlorine will ensure that no active pathogens remain in the system before refilling.

As the pool or spa fills it is a good idea to dose 3 mg/l of free chlorine (granular or liquid) just to ensure that no live pathogens are still around to start up the Biofilm again.

PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Regular periodic maintenance treatments would avoid the need for the final flushing with fresh water. In the case of a domestic spa for example, the spa should be dumped every two to three months at the very least, as a regular maintenance procedure. Prior to this, the Biofilm can be stripped as described above. In public spas this should happen as often as the TDS rises to 2000 ppm. In busy places this might happen twice or three times per week, depending on the bather load. In these cases the spa can be dumped early morning before opening after a thorough 12 hour Multizyme – Spa treatment over night, on a monthly basis. The pool or spa must be closed during this treatment for obvious reasons.

Heavily loaded public pools would need to do this exercise at least once a year, while Hydrotherapy and Learn To Swim pools would need two to three treatments per year, to keep them safe. Domestic heated pools should find that an annual Multizyme treatment (during a noliday break) would keep it safe from contamination. Multizyme is pH neutral and does not act as a biocide. Its job is to break down the organic compounds binding the bacteria to one another and to the interior of a spa or pool or the plant surfaces.

Alan Lewis email : aquazure34@gmail.com

Does your swimming pool water collect algae very soon? Is it that you are not cleaning your pool often? Do you have a maintenance contract with a pool company? Did your pool builder advice you how to keep your pool clean and rid of algae? These are common questions that plague all of us. If the water is not cleared daily and the pool is not cleaned on a regular basis then algae forms and the water turns green. Though it is now fashion to have green pools but having green colored water due to algae is bad. Algae in water can cause stomach ache, dysentery and many other diseases. If you swim in dirty water it can enter your mouth causing diseases. Also your skin will get rashes and red spots. Algae need to be removed permanently and that can be done easily. It is not a difficult task.

First and foremost you try and get the sides and base of the pool cleaned. This is very essential for the water to clear. That is where algae grow. The main chemical that helps remove algae is chlorine based chemical known as ‘Shock’. This is granular in form and is highly concentrated chlorine. This high level of chlorine kills the algae and makes it unlivable in the pool water. Thus the algae dies and can be removed permanently.

While adding Shock keep the pool filter system on so that the dirty water and algae can be pumped out. After removing the algae you should also clean the filter as the dead algae will remain there congesting the filter nozzle. After this within twenty four hours you will see that the swimming pool has cleared considerably. Doing this twice or thrice at a stretch can help get rid of algae from your pool. You can also vacuum the pool to remove the dead algae that settles in the bottom of the pool. Once the pool is rid of algae and the water has turned blue check the alkalinity and calcium hardness of water to make sure that balance is maintained in the pool water. By adding algaecide pool chemical ensures that algae do not occur again.

Facebook forum on pool information gives you more updates and you can also talk to our experts on Facebook. Also follow us on Twitter to get regular updates about algae problem and other pool related issues. Experts can advice you to keep your pool clean.

Keeping your pool clean through out the year is a daunting task for many of us. In fact this is more important than buying and installing one. Maintenance is the major issue as all of us are busy working through out the week. There is no time left for house hold chores let alone cleaning the pool. I would suggest that you outsource this work. There are pool companies who will do the work for you and keep your pool clean and ready for you to use it whenever you want. These pool companies are run by professionals who are experts in their job. The pool company will assess the size of the pool and what are your requirements for maintenance work and sign up an annual contract with you for a fee. Every week their person will come over and clean your pool and refresh the water. Adding Chlorine to the water is the most important part of maintenance. The exact amount should help you in keeping the water clean as well as safe for swimmers. Else you may end up with burning eyes and rashes on your skin. After all it is for enjoyment that you install a pool at your premises. Not to complicate life. To keep your pool clean the first and foremost requirement is a pool cover. Pump and filter liners are also essential along with pool chemicals. If you do not wish to go in for annual maintenance then you can call up the pool service and repair person only when necessary. But I would suggest that you should go in for regular maintenance so that the water doesn’t turn green with dirt and moss. Though green pools are in vogue today the water should be clean and pure. Only regular maintenance can ensure that. The filtration plant should be cleaned once in 3 months at least and the under water lights need to be changed from time to time. If you have a solar paneling system for lighting and heating then you need to get the maintenance done for it as well. Though there are DIY kits that can guide you to clean your pool yourself it is advisable to go in for pool company annual contracts. To know more about the advantages of hiring a pool company and to get latest updates about swimming pools you can join us on Twitter and Facebook. We’ve a Facebook forum where all new ideas and latest technology advancements are discussed that will help you to learn more about your swimming pool. After all it is an investment of a life time, isn’t it?

In order to keep your pool clean and fresh always it is highly essential for you to pay a lot of attention to its maintenance. A swimming pool can really give a luxurious appearance to your house. If you have maintained a deck area or a lounge area near your pool then you can surely organize various parties and functions in that area. If you really want to maintain your pool in the proper manner then it is essential for you to take the help of the specialists. The specialists would be able to tell you about filtration and chemical treatment programs. 

This article would mainly focus on various new techniques that can really help you to maintain your swimming pool.

1. Sanitizing your pool

You must use good chlorine products to sanitize your swimming pool. Chlorine will really help in keeping your swimming pool safe from bacteria attack. You will see that the chlorine products usually come in the form of tablets and sticks which you can add into your filter pump that is located in your swimming pool's distribution system.

2. Ph balance

Maintaining the PH balance of the water in your swimming pool is highly essential. You must keep in mind that the Ph balance of your pool water should be between 7.6 and 7.8. If it is too high then you will see the scale formation in your pool area but if it is too low then water would get corrosive gradually. Chlorine should always be added gradually to the pool water. This will make sure that the proper amount of chlorine is added to the water. 

3. Algae Preventive Products

In order to protect your swimming pool from algae formation it is highly essential for you to use the algae preventive products. The liquid algae product should be poured into the filter pump so that it can be distributed evenly. 

4. Check the quantity of calcium in your pool

It is a known fact that calcium causes cloudiness and corrosion in your pool that is why its level should always be maintained between 150 and 250 ppm. You must hire a professional who can check the calcium level in your pool at least once a year. 

5. Check your filter and pump on a regularly basis

In order to ensure the proper distribution of water you must check your filter and the swimming pool pump on a regular basis. You must replace the diatomaceous earth and sand from the filter. 

Well these are some highly important things that are very essential for the proper maintenance of your pool area.